Install the tool (with the seal mounted to it) onto the rear of the crankshaft. Install the seal onto tool J-34686 for 3.4L engines, J 41349 for 3.8L engines or J 35621 for 5.7L engines. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks or burrs, correct as required.Ĭlean the area and coat the seal with engine oil.
Using a suitable prytool, carefully pry the old seal out.Ħ. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure plate. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands. It happens and can be a pain to replace if you're a DYI kinda person without the nec. This is most likely a leak from your rear main seal. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common.Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, the oil pump should be replaced.A revised distributor is available if oil is found inside the distributor. Engine oil leaks at the distributor can be misdiagnosed as leaks from the intake manifold seal, oil pan gasket, or rear crankshaft (rear main) seal.Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common.The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration the gasket should be replaced.Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying TechniqueĮngine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
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